Kharcho
Georgian beef soup thickened with ground walnuts and soured with tkemali plum sauce, with rice, a great deal of garlic and a forest of coriander.

About this dish
Kharcho is built on two ideas that most soups elsewhere never use: nuts as a thickener and sour fruit as a seasoning. Ground walnuts give body and a faint bitterness where another cuisine would reach for flour or cream, and tkemali — a sauce of sour wild plums — does the job that vinegar or lemon does elsewhere, but with fruit behind the acid. Both are pantry staples in Georgia, which is why a dish that sounds elaborate is in fact everyday food.
- Gluten-free
- Lactose-free
- Not vegetarian because of Beef chuck, cubed
Ingredients
- 700gBeef chuck, cubed
- 2lWater
- 100gLong-grain rice
- 100gShelled walnuts
- 120gTkemali (sour plum sauce)
- 250gOnion
- 4clovesGarlic cloves
- 40gTomato paste
- 30mlSunflower oil
- 6gSweet smoked paprika
- 2leavesBay leaves
- 12gFine sea salt
- 3gGround black pepper
- 30gFresh coriander
- 15gFlat-leaf parsley
Instructions
Simmer the diced beef in the water with bay and salt for 60 minutes, skimming the foam in the first ten.
60 minTip: Skim early and it comes off in a grey raft; skim late and it has broken up into the broth. This is the only chance to keep the soup clean-tasting.
Fry the chopped onion in the oil for 6 minutes, then stir in the tomato paste and cook 2 minutes more.
8 minTip: Cooking the paste in fat before it meets liquid is what removes its tinny edge. Two minutes and it darkens by a shade — that is the signal.
Add the onion mixture and the rice to the pot with the paprika and pepper, and cook 15 minutes.
15 minTip: Long-grain rice, and not too much of it. Kharcho is a soup with rice in it, not a rice porridge, and rice keeps swelling in the pot long after the heat is off.
Stir in the finely ground walnuts, the tkemali and the crushed garlic, and simmer very gently for 10 minutes.
10 minTip: Gently. Ground walnuts release oil, and a hard boil splits that oil out into a slick on the surface instead of leaving it bound into the body of the soup.
Take off the heat, stir in a great deal of chopped coriander and parsley, and let it stand before serving.
2 minTip: Ten minutes standing is not idleness — kharcho tastes noticeably better once the walnut and the sour plum have had time to meet.