Irish Salmon Chowder
A gentle cream soup of leek, potato and salmon, thickened only by the potatoes breaking down. The fish goes in at the very end and poaches in the residual heat, which is what keeps it in flakes rather than threads.

About this dish
Chowder came to Ireland from the fishing ports of the Atlantic coast, where the cream and potatoes were whatever the farm gave and the fish was whatever the boats brought in. Salmon makes the version served in Cork and Donegal kitchens, and the Irish habit is to keep it a soup rather than a stew — thickened by the starch of its own potatoes, never by flour.
- Gluten-free
- Not vegetarian because of Salmon fillet, skinned, Fish stock
- Contains dairy because of Heavy cream, Unsalted butter
Ingredients
- 500gSalmon fillet, skinned
- 500gPotatoes
- 250gLeek
- 150gOnion
- 100gCelery stalks
- 800mlFish stock
- 250mlHeavy cream
- 120mlDry white wine
- 40gUnsalted butter
- 15gFresh dill
- 1leafBay leaves
- 1tbspLemon juice
- 2tspFine sea salt
- 1tspGround black pepper
Instructions
Melt the butter over low heat and sweat the sliced leek, onion and celery for 10 minutes, stirring now and then, until soft and sweet without a hint of colour.
10 minTip: Colour is the enemy here. A browned base turns a pale, delicate chowder into something that tastes of fried onion, and there is no taking it back out.
Pour in the white wine, add the bay leaf and let it bubble for 4–5 minutes until the sharpness has cooked off.
5 minTip: Wine added to a cream soup must reduce first. Poured in near the end, the acid would curdle the cream the moment it meets it.
Add the diced potatoes and the fish stock. Simmer for 15 minutes, until the potatoes are soft enough to crush against the side of the pan. Crush about a third of them there.
15 minTip: That crushed third is the only thickener the soup gets. It is why this chowder is gluten-free without any substitution — the body comes from the potato, not a roux.
Cut the salmon into large cubes. Take the pan off the boil so the liquid barely trembles, slide in the fish and the cream, and leave it for 5–6 minutes without stirring.
6 minTip: The salmon poaches in the residual heat, not over a flame. Boiled or stirred, it breaks into threads and clouds the soup; left alone, it holds together in flakes.
Fish out the bay leaf. Stir in the dill and lemon juice, then season carefully with salt and pepper. Serve with soda bread.
4 minTip: The lemon is added off the heat and last of all: it lifts the cream, but boiled it would split it. Salt at the end too — the stock and the fish have already brought their own.