Cacio e Pepe

About this dish

Cacio e Pepe — literally "cheese and pepper" in Roman dialect — is one of the oldest pastas of central Italy, dating back to shepherds who carried aged pecorino and dried pasta on long mountain treks. Its genius lies in what is absent: no butter, no cream, no garlic, no olive oil. Only three ingredients, and mastery of emulsification separates a silky, restaurant-quality result from a clumped, greasy mess.

• Vegetarian
• Not vegan because of Pecorino Romano, finely grated
• Contains gluten because of Spaghetti
• Contains dairy because of Pecorino Romano, finely grated

• 200gSpaghetti
• 100gPecorino Romano, finely grated
• 2tspWhole black peppercorns
• ½tspFine sea salt
• 2000mlWater

Instructions

1. 1

   Toast the black peppercorns in a dry pan over medium heat for 2 minutes until fragrant. Crush coarsely with a mortar or the flat of a knife — you want texture, not powder. Reserve 1 teaspoon for garnish.

   2 min

   Tip: Freshly cracked pepper has a completely different aroma from pre-ground. This step is not optional.

2. 2

   Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Use only half the usual amount of salt — the pasta water will be reduced and concentrated for the sauce, so it must not be too salty. Cook the spaghetti for 2 minutes less than the packet says.

   10 min

   Tip: Under-cooking by 2 minutes is essential — the pasta finishes cooking in the sauce. It will seem underdone at this stage.

3. 3

   While the pasta cooks, toast the crushed pepper in a large frying pan over medium heat for 30 seconds. Add 120 ml of pasta water and let it bubble for 1 minute.

   2 min

   Tip: The pasta water is your sauce base. Reserve at least 400 ml before draining.

4. 4

   Drain the pasta (reserving the water) and add directly to the pepper pan. Toss over medium heat for 2 minutes, adding pasta water a splash at a time to keep things loose and saucy.

   3 min

   Tip: The starch in the pasta water is what creates a sauce from nothing. Add it gradually — too much water makes it thin.

5. 5

   Remove the pan from heat completely. Wait 30 seconds for it to cool slightly. Add half the Pecorino Romano and toss vigorously. Add another splash of pasta water and the remaining cheese. Toss until a creamy, glossy sauce coats every strand.

   2 min

   Tip: The pan must be off the heat when you add the cheese or it will clump and become grainy. Room-temperature pasta water helps.

6. 6

   Plate immediately into warm bowls. Top with the reserved freshly cracked pepper and more grated Pecorino. Eat at once — Cacio e Pepe does not wait.

   Tip: Warm your bowls with hot water first — cold plates are the fastest way to turn silky pasta into a rubbery brick.