Beef Goulash
Beef shoulder braised slowly with a great deal of onion and sweet paprika, thickened at the end into a sauce heavy enough to coat a spoon. Ninety minutes of doing nothing, and most of the flavour is made in the first fifteen.

About this dish
Goulash is Hungarian by birth and has been cooked in Ukrainian kitchens long enough to have become something else: less soup than the original gulyás, thicker than a stew, and served over buckwheat, potato or pasta depending on what the house has. What survives the journey is the principle — onion in a weight that alarms people the first time, paprika added off the heat, and a cut of beef that rewards patience rather than punishing it.
- Lactose-free
- Not vegetarian because of Beef chuck, cubed, Beef stock
- Contains gluten because of Plain flour
Ingredients
- 1200gBeef chuck, cubed
- 400gOnion
- 200gCarrot
- 200gRed bell pepper
- 25gSweet smoked paprika
- 40gTomato paste
- 4piecesGarlic cloves
- 1lBeef stock
- 25gPlain flour
- 40mlSunflower oil
- 2piecesBay leaves
- 12gFine sea salt
- 3gGround black pepper
- 20gFlat-leaf parsley
Instructions
Pat the beef dry, season with the salt and brown it hard in the oil in batches, about 12 minutes in all. Set it aside.
12 minTip: Dry meat and a crowded pan are the two ways to steam beef instead of browning it. Work in batches even when it is tedious: this crust is the difference between goulash and boiled beef in gravy.
In the same pot, cook the onion, carrot and pepper over medium heat for 10 minutes, until the onion is soft and beginning to colour.
10 minTip: The onion here is nearly a third the weight of the meat, and it is meant to be. It breaks down completely over the braise and becomes the body of the sauce; there is no flour doing that job until the very end.
Take the pot off the heat, stir in the paprika, tomato paste and garlic, and let them cook in the residual warmth for a minute.
3 minTip: Paprika burns at frying temperature and turns bitter in seconds — irreversibly. Off the heat is not caution, it is the only way this quantity survives.
Return the beef, add the stock, bay and pepper, bring to a bare simmer, cover and cook for 90 minutes, until a fork turns in the meat without effort.
90 minTip: A bare simmer, with barely a bubble breaking. A rolling boil tightens the muscle fibres and squeezes out the moisture the long cooking is supposed to be putting back.
Whisk the flour with a ladle of the hot liquid until smooth, stir it back into the pot and simmer 10 minutes more. Finish with the parsley.
10 minTip: Tempering the flour in hot liquid first is what prevents lumps; flour added dry to a full pot will find every way to clump and none to disperse.